Tuesday, August 01, 2006

This and that and then some

So the new display board showed up on my wife's birthday (as predicted), but I took the high road and didn't do any game work that day. But Saturday morning I plugged it in and it worked great (I tried to come up with some funny analogy for how great it worked, but couldn't... it defies analogies, that's how great it was). My power board delivers voltage a little too warm, but the adjustable voltage feature allows me to calm the raging beast without trouble. There are 4 vertical lines out on the display, which may be the cable or happened while I've been manhandling the DMD over the last few weeks. I'll worry about that later, but for now I have a more or less working display.

With display issues out of the way, I put in some batteries so it wouldn't forget the volume setting and did some more testing. The switch problems on the ramp were caused by an unplugged wire, and I tested as many underplayfield things as I could -- turns out one of the round targets under the mini playfield doesn't work, and I couldn't get any of the optos to work (one had a wire cut, but even after I spliced it, it didn't work). I did plug in the flipper boards and they work. Most of the lights and flashers are just burned out, though I couldn't get one or two to work, and I didn't try to get any that were in or under the mini playfield.


Hey, just for fun, here's a picture of my impromptu diagnostic buttons that should have been on the coin door. Note the beautiful piece of cardboard the buttons are mounted in. From there the wires are connected by alligator clips to the coin door interface board. Note the pieces of cardboard between the alligator clips to keep them from shorting against each other. It's a class act all around.

What I did notice when I plugged in the flipper boards is yet another MIA part... the things that actually allow the flippers to work. For reasons known only to him- or herself, the loon who used to own this game put regular switches where the flipper buttons are, rather than the "
Flipper opto plastic interruptors" as Marco's calls them.

Armed with this information, it was time to spend some more money, because next up are the flippers. I first took stock of the flippers I bought on eBay (they're pretty much complete, aside from having the wrong coils) and what's in the game (random parts, but the main mounting plate and the flipper bats at minimum) and came up with a shopping list. Today, I did that thing I feared most: Called Steve Young at The Pinball Resource, a man who, every time I've talked to him, makes me feel stupid at least once. Now, though, I think this is just a sophisticated way he has of training his customers to do what he wants... sort of like the Soup Nazi for pinball... the Pinball Nazi, I shall henceforth call him. I had my shopping list ready, knew all the correct names of everything, had my customer number, and quickly stepped to the left as soon as I ordered. I got half a flipper rebuild kit (this should give me the parts I need to complete the upper left flipper), a coil, and 10 #906 bulbs for the
flashers. I asked if he had the interruptors, but he said no and briefly discussed how some repros from Australia were in his opinion of inferior quality. But overall it was pretty painless. To get the interruptors I put in my first purchase at Marco, where they are $3.75 each. Shipping was $9, and since I felt pretty dumb paying more for shipping than for the items, I browsed for a while and found an opto set which I should be able to use under the playfield... I think it's the one with the wire cut, but I'm hoping to use it for the Tardis upkicker switch, which is also not working.

No pinball this weekend, since the family is going to Otakon. I have Monday off, so if something arrives over the weekend maybe I'll do something then.